Sirbaz, 32, hails from the Aliabad area of Hunza in Gilgit-Baltistan and began his climbing career in 2016.
By Staff Reporter
ISLAMABAD: Sirbaz Khan on Saturday became the first Pakistani climber to summit 10 of the world’s highest 14 peaks above 8,000 metre after scaling Kanchenjunga 8,586 metre, Alpine club of Pakistan said.
“Sirbaz stood atop the world’s third highest peak at 7:00 am on Saturday with other members of a team led by Mingma Gyalje Sherpa of Imagine Nepal,” Karrar Haidri, secretary Alpine Club of Pakistan said in a statement.
Kanchenjunga, which forms part of the Himalayas range, is said to be the most difficult mountain to climb to the top among 8000ers, from the final camp and takes the longest time as well due it its steep gorges and bitterly cold climate.
Sirbaz, 32, hails from the Aliabad area of Hunza in Gilgit-Baltistan and began his climbing career in 2016.
In 2019, he became the first Pakistani to summit Mount Lhotse, the world’s fourth-highest mountain at 8,516m in Nepal, without the use of supplementary oxygen. Prior to that, he climbed the 8,125-metre-high Nanga Parbat in 2017, 8,611-metre-high K-2 in 2018 and 8,163-metre Broad Peak in 2019.
Earlier this year, he climbed the 8,091-metre high Anapurna mountain, 8,848-metre high Everest and 8,035-metre high Gasherbrum II.
On four of these expeditions, he had been accompanied by late Muhammad Ali Sadpara.
Sajid Ali Sadpara, the son of late legendary mountaineer Sadpara and a climber himself, tweeted: “Congratulations kako Sirbaz khan for conquering the world’s 3rd highest mountain Kanchenjunga.”
Sirbaz is aiming to become the first Pakistani to climb all 14 of the world’s highest peaks.
He plans to climb Makalu 8,485-metre this month and Gasherbrum I (G1) 8,080-metre this summer. However, Cho Oyu 8,188-metre and Shishapangma 8,027-metre are not decided yet.
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